Bangkok bad, Ayutthaya good. The former way too touristy, overpriced, loud, glitzy, a city of sin but named the city of angels; the latter on the path less traveled, less hectic, fantastic, though also the site of mass murder, rape and destruction. Stood on a bridge over the river and stayed in a bamboo hut, saw ginormous Buddhas and sat in the stillness of ornate temples. The white elephant is sacred.

Also went to a Thai boxing match and was asked to go a round. Never underestimate the smile or size of your opponent and his desire to win. Or mine.