Surfing in winter is tough. Gale-force winds make for choppy waters, chilly temps, cross-currents and a strong rip that can drag you out to sea and back to shore, leaving you battered and shivering despite paddling for ages and the best of thermals.
It is under these conditions that reveal who you are and forge who you become.
On the first day, my coach said: “You’re like a different surfer. Confident, in control, stronger.” Training had paid off.
On the second day, messy waves thrashed us good. Bleeding and bruised and exhausted, the three of us voted unanimously to cut our session in half.
We returned the next day to find that the weather and waves were unchanged, but we were different — steely and determined but light hearted and laughing. A super fun day!
“Surfing es como la vida. No importa cuantas veces te caigas de la ola, solo levantate y toma la siguiente.”
Surfing is like life. No matter how many times you fall off the waves, just get up and catch the next.