The metro stations look like caves, there are giant ice cubes in the sea, and you can ice skate without skates. It’s -30°C!

Smoked salmon is the best I’ve tasted worldwide, and everyone — old friends in Uppsala and new friends in Stockholm — has a reason why they drink beer fast. Because liquor stores close at 17:00, most people have a stash of liquor and use ferries as a work-around.

There’s a swipe card for everything, and the ice castle pokes fun at the weather with a radiator, bathtub and fireplace made of ice.

I’ve learned how to warm up on a short walk — the secret is to duck into banks or stop for fika. Even better if you have a friend to hold onto during a blizzard.